So You Want To Go To Africa?
Jim Greenwald
I got a chance to go to Africa a few years back, and among other things
on this trip I had a chance to check out the ecological disaster that has hurt
Lake Victoria. I had just come back from Lake Tanganyika and was hanging out
in the capital city of Dar Es Salaam. I heard that there was a cargo plane heading
to the small port on Lake Victoria of Mwanza. They were heading there to pick
up a load of fish, mainly food fish, the Nile perch that the fisherman bring
to this north-western Tanzanian small port city at the lower end of Lake Victoria.
They were also going to pick up a load of tropical fish that a local exporter
gets from the swampland and small estuaries that feed the lake. Here I went!
I convinced them to take me along so I could spend a few days, at least until
the next plane arrived, with this exporter in one of the remoter parts of Africa,
if having a runway where a jet plane can land can be called remote. They needed
to load the plane, with supplies for their rounds around the outback. I sat
it out at the airport bar, and if it wasn’t for the fact that all the
characters were humans, this place could have been a scene out of star wars.
Talk around the airport bar told me that the runway was plenty long at Mwanza,
but terribly narrow. A few years back a DC-8 crashed trying to land there and
the remains are scattered in various places around the airport. Finally they
came and got me in the late afternoon, and I threw my fish collecting gear aboard
and off we went. We had one stop before we got to Mwanza. Our ground time there
was amazingly short as the cargo crews were very well organized and we were
back in the air after an hour. I saw a spectacular sunset while I waited for
the plane to be unloaded and loaded. At about 8 PM local time we were over Lake
Victoria on final approach. I sat behind the co-pilot in what I guess would
be the navigators seat if in fact they carried one. I would imagine that this
seat was occupied by travelers such as I most of the time. As we were coming
into view of the airport on our final approach, the airport lost power &
lost all its lights, which according to the crew is a routine experience around
here, so the pilot had to go around until the back-up generators got the lights
back on. It was about a half an hour before the lights finally came back on
and we just circled over the lake waiting. The crew telling me tales of backwoods
cargo pilots. On our second approach the pilot was much too far to the right
and while I watched in terror, nearly took out the small terminal and control
tower. He powered up when he realized what was happening and so we missed approach
number two. We climbed back into a landing pattern and breathed a sigh of relief
and calmed down for another landing. On our third time at a final approach from
over the lake with no visual reference below, the control tower called to the
pilot, “You are too low, pull up!!!” To which the Captain replied,
“Don’t worry, I know what I am doing.” The captain very calmly
and professionally brought the plane down towards the runway. Or what appeared
to be the runway. About 5 KM short of the runway, we hit the water. Thank god
we had on our seat belts, because the impact forced us all forward at a great
rate of speed while the plane failed to keep up. We immediately readied ourselves
to abandon ship, and we turned on all the lights hoping someone would come out
looking for us. Finally a fishing boat found us courtesy of the taxi light and
other lights we had on. The plane seemed to be floating, but we really didn’t
know for how long, so we grabbed what we could and came ashore with the fishing
boat. We managed to find the fish exporter’s facility somewhere around
2 am, but no one was to be found, so we curled up on some chairs and called
it a night. At first daybreak, the pilots got up to see what happened to their
plane they left floating out in the lake. I could not help but tag along. We
could see the plane out there a ways and so we found the biggest boat around
and went out to see the plane. In the daylight we could see that the water landing
tore off all four engines and the landing gear, but apparently didn’t
puncture the fuselage. So the plane kept a float. We decided to tow it into
shore, and when the plane finally ran aground about 100 meters from shore, we
left it there. I spent three great days learning about Lake Victoria and her
people and problems, but that’s fodder for another story. As we took off
there was my ride into Mwerza, well almost, in the shallow water near the air-port,
where it will probably be a beacon for many years. Even from a thousand feet
up, the plane, where I had one of the most incredible escapes from death, was
clearly seen. I will never forget that plane as it sat in the lakebed.
Last updated 30 June 2003, 1942, BL